Three days in the Big Easy with the small fry... Take a family holiday in a land that lies between fantasy and a dream-come-true for kids, teens, and parents.
New Orleans is a giant, outdoor museum, one big block party, a never-ending concert, and a gourmet/gourmand paradise.
We’ve got glorious parades, brassy bands, haunted houses, historic streetcars and paddlewheelers, a world-class zoo, festivals for every occasion, a top-five aquarium and nationally recognized children’s museum, gourmet snowballs, the French Market, the National D-Day Museum, and Six Flags theme park. The list is long, the fun unlimited, and the food sensational.
And the tour starts here.
Breakfast of Creoles Launch a new adventure with an old tradition: warm, crusty beignets and café au lait or hot chocolate at the French Market’s Café du Monde, just across from Jackson Square. The outdoor ambiance and passing throngs keep the whole family entertained. Watch the beignet making through windows at the back of the café.
City Scope Next, spend the morning scoping out coming attractions on a guided city tour. Lots of choices to get the lay of the land: there are tours by bus, van, and mule-drawn carriage.
Sporty family? Try a reclining bike tour or kayak along the city’s waterways.
You’ll discover that New Orleans is a living museum with 17 historic neighborhoods like the French Quarter and Garden District, both classified as National Historic Landmarks. Tours explore action-packed sites like the French Quarter, City Park, the Arts District, and the cemeteries we call “cities of the dead” for their monumental architecture.
Cruising for Lunch The only tricky part about lunch is making a decision.
Board a riverboat for a lunch cruise. See and feel the power and history of the Mississippi while getting a taste of local Creole and Cajun specialties.
Or grab muffulettas (chock full of kidpleasers like salami and cheese) at Progress Grocery or Central Grocery (915 and 923 Decatur St.), where the muffuletta was created, and picnic along the river on the Moonwalk or Woldenberg Park.
Restaurants that keep the troops especially amused include Remoulade, 309 Bourbon St., home of the Almost All-Crustacean Pick-Up Band with Mardi Claw the crab on trombone. Digest that while you watch the chefs preparing kid-friendly food.
Teens and adults get a kick out of Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville, 1104 Decatur St. Both cheeseburgers and poboys are served in a paradise of wildly painted furniture, colorful, tacky fish and boats suspended from the ceilings. Look for the painted van— great photo op for the kids.
French Market After lunch, sift through the wares spread out under the French Market arcades: local products like satsumas and Creole tomatoes (in season), hot sauces, pecan syrup, tee-shirts, voodoo paraphernalia, and local crafts including lots of jewelry. Thirsty? Icy snowballs are saturated with exotic flavor combos. Sweet
teeth? Pick up some crunchy, creamy pecan pralines. At Aunt Sally’s Decatur Street shop, watch the praline-making process, unchanged since the 1930s.
Ageless Kid Stuff Three words about the Musée Conti Wax Museum at 917 Conti St.: Kids love it. They’re enthralled by frenzied voodoo dancers, ghost stories, and Napoleon giving Louisiana away while enthroned in his bath.
The Pharmacy Museum at 514 Chartres, preserves a 19th-century trove of apothecary artifacts, voodoo powders, live leeches, and deliciously icky stuff.
Get a bead on Mardi Gras culture. A free ferry ride across the river to Algiers and a free shuttle delivers the would-be krewe to Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World. There, the whole family can dress up in authentic carnival krewe costumes (more sequins than a Liberace ensemble). See the technicolor floats, props, and artists in the act of creating them.
A Date with History If the older kids are interested in history, New Orleans’ 300 years have been crammed with exciting incidents. The Louisiana State Museum is spread out over five Quarter landmarks: the Cabildo and Presbytère (flanking St. Louis Cathedral), 1850 House (in the Pontalba Building on Jackson Square), Madame John’s Legacy, 632 Dumaine, and the Old U.S. Mint, which includes a jazz history exhibit, at 400 Esplanade. Thousands of artifacts and art works tell fascinating tales of New Orleans’ colorful and diverse heritage. For instance, Pirates Alley was named for the pirates who were lead along its cobble-stone path to the prison in the Presbytère. The new Mardi Gras exhibit at the Presbytère relives the history and excitement of carnival in colorful costume displays and videos. Feel the excitement of riding atop a carnival float.
Historic houses like Hermann-Grima (820 St. Louis St.), Gallier House (1132 Royal St.), and Beauregard-Keyes (1113 Chartres St.) whisk the clan back to 18th- and 19th-century society. Check on children’s classes in old-fashioned crafts and seasonal goodies.
Budding musicians and audiophiles discover the people and forces that shaped jazz at the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park, 916 St. Peter St., the only site in the national park service dedicated to a music form. On the site of Congo Square, it’s where slaves gathered to perform tribal dances. Their African and Caribbean rhythms were part of the inspiration for jazz.
The African Museum of Art Culture & History, 1418 Gov. Nicholls St., and the Backstreet Cultural Museum, 1116 St. Claude Ave., are both located in one of the nation’s oldest black communities— historic
Faubourg Tremé near the French Quarter. They preserve the past and promote living artists via exhibits, lectures, and performance.
Whew, got all that? No matter, there’s always tomorrow. Tonight...
Dinner on the Town New Orleans is a Creole city, but at Mulate’s, 201 Julia Street, and Michaul’s, 840 St. Charles, Avenue, you get a taste of down-home Cajun joie de vivre. Younger kids and adults get out on the dance floor to work off the fried catfish and bread pudding with some Cajun and Zydeco two-stepping.
Instructors give neophytes a whirl around the dance floor.
Teens & Agers Teens and parents bond over the comedy and theatrical performances at the True Brew Café, 200 Julia St. in the Central Business District. Very cool. Or check out who’s playing at the House of Blues, 225 Decatur Street. (Some acts admit only those 18 and over, so call first.) The décor looks like they pillaged local art galleries and crafts shows, bless ‘em, and they book an interesting roster of musical acts for adolescents to adults.
In New Orleans, the current meal is the most important one of the day. So make breakfast an event. Throughout the French Quarter, Central Business District, and Faubourg Marigny, small cafés abound, dedicated to aromatic coffees, crusty, creamy baked goods, and grits and grillades. At the Bluebird Café, 3625 Prytania St. Uptown, if the bluebird decor doesn’t wow ‘em, the menu usually does: waffles thick with syrup, French fries, burgers, and ice creams. Oh, and construct your own omelettes.
Into the Deep After breakfast, stroll along the river via Moon Walk and Woldenberg Park, about 3 blocks, or hop the Riverfront Streetcar to the Aquarium of the Americas. It’s an underwater adventure that ranks among the top five in the U.S. Over a million gallons of water and habitats of the Caribbean Sea, the Amazon Rainforest, the Mississippi River and Gulf of Mexico hold 15,000 aquatic species. Pet a shark, take a picture in the faux shark’s jaw, and walk the undersea tunnel.
Zoo to Do Then board the John James Audubon Cruise to Audubon Park and the acclaimed Zoo. Or go a different way: pile the gang onto the St. Charles Streetcar, the world’s oldest continuously operating street railway and a National Historic Landmark. The route passes through the Garden District and Uptown past MTV’s
Real World Belfort Mansion and architectural rarities like the wedding cake house (a private residence at 5809 St. Charles). Next stop, Audubon Park.
Unless it’s lunchtime. Then, continue on the Streetcar about a mile beyond the Park to Riverbend, a commercial and restaurant extravaganza. It’s not just the burgers or the balcony at O’Henry’s that attracts short subjects; kids love to tear open the peanuts that precede every meal and throw down the shells to stomp on them. (Next best thing to bubble wrap.)
Although Camellia Grill is a local favorite for breakfast— pecan waffles and coffee freezes— the fare and the look is upscale 50s diner, and the burgers nearly perfect. The Trolley Stop serves breakfast 24/7, and has a big picture window to watch the activity along the Avenue.
Afterwards, ride the Streetcar back along St. Charles to the park entrance, and either walk about 6 blocks through the park to the Zoo or wait a few minutes for the free shuttle to wheel the troops there. (If you’ve brought a snack with you as you walk through the park, you’re sure to get plenty of attention from the friendly ducks and turtles that crowd the ponds.)
Audubon is an interactive zoo. Near the gate, opposite the flamingos, frequent animal demos let the kids see and pet wild things up close.
At Monkey Hill, little tykes roll, run, and jump through a playground with a giant spider’s web and a swingin’ rope bridge. In the wilds of the Jaguar Jungle young explorers excavate faux artifacts and climb mysterious, pseudo-ancient rock walls.
See a swamp in the city! The Cajun Swamp is inhabited by a variety of aquatic and land creatures including white alligators gators and huge rodents. Watch them all from the swampland café and rock out to Cajun music at the Swamp Café. Or just rock in the comfy veranda chairs.
Bowled Over Uptown is home to some of the city’s great eateries. Pascal’s Manale at 1838 Napoleon has served popular mid-priced seafood and Italian specialties since 1913. Or Mandina’s, 3800 Canal, yet another staple, is a little more animated; the portions are big, and the price is right.
A few blocks away at 4133 S. Carrollton, the funky Rock-N-Bowl is a New Orleans original. Parents get lessons in Cajun and Zydeco dance before the bands start, while kids bowl the night away, pretending they’re unrelated to Fred & Ginger (or Tijean & Ti’Eva) wannabes.
Split Decision This is it. The last day. There’s no way to cover everything. So you make choices. Could be a split decision: some to the shops, some to the cooking school, swamp tour, or riverboat cruise.
Here’s a variety of possibilities, young and old, sport or shopaholic, Barney-lover or burgeoning chef, from the Quarter to Uptown and Mid-City. After an ensemble breakfast and a family portrait, there are dozens of paths to take.
Gospel Truth If it’s Sunday, go for the gospel—brunch, that is. The Praline Connection at 901 S. Peters St. in the Warehouse Art District serves up great local talent with Creole comfort soul food kids love, like fried chicken, corn bread, mac & cheese, and sweet potato pie. And praise be for softshell crawfish and alligator sausage.
House of Blues at 225 Decatur, with imported and local entertainers, whips up an eclectic spread with a few N.O. goodies like the divine white chocolate bread pudding.
Uptown eateries dish out great fare, with or without tunes. Commander’s Palace, the originator of the Jazz Brunch, is located at 1403 Washington Ave. in the Garden District. The upscale restaurant does jazz brunch on weekends.
Picturesque Quarter In the French Quarter, sit for a family portrait at Jackson Square. Better than photos, it’s the ultimate souvenir of your time together captured on canvas.
Afterwards, shopaholics explore the antiquities and collectibles of Royal and other Vieux Carré streets. Kids get a kick out of the voodoo stores, flamboyant costume and mask shops while they’re entertained by street musicians, clowns, and dancers.
On the upscale side, the Jax Brewery, Canal Place, and Riverwalk together offer a shopping and food extravaganza. Between purchases, take a break on the river at the scenic fountain in Spanish Plaza which lies between Riverwalk and the Imax Theater. Experience six miles of shopping along Magazine Street, where trendy fashion and classic style meet in countless clothing, furniture and art stores.
For international visitors, shopping in New Orleans is tax free at Louisiana Tax Free member stores (visit www.louisianataxfree.com for a list of retailers). Simply show your passport or other government-issed photo ID and have your retailer fill out the tax free voucher and take it to the tax refund center in the
Riverwalk Marketplace or the Louis Armstrong International Airport.
Thinking about how to take a taste of New Orleans home with you? Tip: Learn to cook Cajun and Creole yourself. The New Orleans School of Cooking at 524 St. Louis St. offers open classes of two or three hours every day. It’s fun, costs about $20-$25 per person, and you get recipes and samples. Take the lunchtime course and that meal’s covered. Your junior chefs are going to savor this experience.
Arts District Across Canal Street, the Central Business & Arts District is crammed with activities. Everyone loves the hands-on exhibits at the world-class Louisiana Children’s Museum at 420 Julia Street. Kids become news reporters, broadcasting before a live camera. They shop at a pintsized grocery store (with itsy-bitsy carts), climb a rock wall, learn how much fun science is, and experience what it’s like to be inside a bubble.
The New Orleans School of Glassmaking, 727 Magazine, offers dramatic live demonstrations, classes, and interactive workshops in glass-blowing, copper enamel, silversmithing, bead making, and the printer’s arts. Spectacular.
The Ogden Museum of Southern Art at 925 Camp St. is a Smithsonian affiliate that houses the largest and most comprehensive collection of Southern art in the world. The exhibits ascend five floors of dramatically contemporary gallery space, telling stories of the South both geographically and chronologically. Kids can take a special Acoustiguide audio tour, with the museum’s imaginary youth guides Elva Louise Swan and Max Katz taking them on an “art sleuthing” adventure. Check out the rooftop deck, too, which has fun sculptures and great views.
The National D-Day Museum at 945 Magazine St. is a national treasure, holding the global history and personal memories of WWII and the people who fought for freedom. Interactive galleries and maps, thousands of artifacts, individual accounts, and films document WWII from Europe to the Pacific.
Lunch with the Arts Located in the Central Business and Arts District, Mother’s, at 401 Poydras St., is considered by many to be the Queen of po-boys, and while you often wait in line for their fine local fair, the party ambiance passes the time in pleasant conversation.
If you missed the Praline Connection’s Gospel Brunch, try the soul food for lunch, 907 S. Peters St., also in the CBD.
Street Savvy Magazine Street has been described as a place so cool, only Greenwich Village might win a hipper-than-thou contest.
For six miles, très trendy objets and cutting-edge couture inhabit the same blocks as art galleries, funky clothes, vintage accessories, wild costumes, wigs, and masks, beaucoup antiques, used and original jewelry, bookstores, and inviting cafés.
At the Bead Shop, 4612 Magazine, kids and teens buy and string beads on the premises, with the store’s help. The Magic Box at 5508 Magazine is filled with unusual and specialty toys for all ages.
If you find yourself craving a snack, there are plenty to choose from, too. Sophie’s, 1912 Magazine, is a real old-fashioned ice cream parlor. Further Uptown, Tee Eva’s (4430 Magazine St.) colorful walk-up-window stand has super sweet homemade pies, pralines and a rainbow of snowball flavors. Blue Frog Chocolates (5707 Magazine St.) sells gourmet candies in fun shapes and colors.
Need a little more than a snack? Joey K’s, 3001 Magazine, serves up New Orleans style daily specials along with a tasty kid’s menu in a casual, friendly atmosphere. A couple block up, New York Bagel Co. at 3923 Magazine has 20 varieties of bagels that can be made into 20 different kids of sandwiches. Or, your little banditos might enjoy tackling the ultra-grande namesake plate at Nacho Mama’s, 3240 Magazine.
For more information about the street’s merchants or to order a free shopping guide, visit www.magazinestreet.com .
Garden District While youngsters may not enjoy looking at Greek Revival, Creole, or Victorian architecture, they jump at the chance to ride in the mule-drawn carriages that tour the Garden District.
Although closed, MTV’s Real World Belfort Mansion, 2618 St. Charles Ave., is still the site of teen pilgrimages.
Meanwhile, Anne Rice fans follow the trail of her witches and vampires through the French Quarter, Garden District, and Mid-City via guided and self-guided tours that cover locations from her books and
the movie Interview with a Vampire. For example, Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, where the vampire Lestat rested and where Rice plans to spend her eternal rest, is at the corner of Prytania and Washington, just across from Commander’s Palace. Rice’s former residence at 1239 First Street was also home to the Mayfair witches. At one time she also owned the mansion at 2543 Prytania, formerly a Catholic chapel and now one of actor Nicolas Cage’s New Orleans homes.
Amid City Park A short, lovely bus ride heading north from the French Quarter along Esplanade Avenue (lined with lovely Creole and Greek Revival architecture) brings you to City Park. Its 1,500 acres are packed with fascinating sights like the world’s largest stand of mature live oaks. For the Sesame Street crowd, there’s
Storyland, a fairy tale theme park and playground. Kids fence aboard Captain Hook’s ship and fish in the Little Mermaid’s pond. And on weekends, the puppet shows entertain crowds of young fans. The park’s Carousel Gardens put another spin on more weekend delights: an antique carousel, a ferris wheel, roller coaster, bumper cars, miniature trains, 40- foot fun slide and lots of rides for children and adults.
StARTing Point, an interactive art gallery for kids offers a great entree to art at the New Orleans Museum of Art in City Park. For adults, the museum houses a permanent collection of over 40,000 objects, noted for its French American, African, and Japanese works. NOMA often holds hands-on classes in arts and crafts for children.
Swamped Tour The adventurous discover the secret life of swamp creatures in the bayous and wetlands and bayous of Louisiana. Cruise by ‘gators and cotton mouths oozing through the murky waters around the cypress knees. Via airboat or tour boat.
Lagniappe That’s the end of the official tour, and believe it or not, it’s really just the beginning of the fun in New Orleans. The Big Easy entertains little tourists with as much enthusiasm and style as the grown ones. To help plan your trip, we’ve added a special reference section for families, with city highlights sorted out by age group and location.
Highlights Before you get started, drop by the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau Visitor Center at 2020 St. Charles Avenue or the French Quarter location at 529 St. Ann Street. Find out what’s going on in the city and how to get around with free brochures like: The New Orleans Official Visitors Guide, and French Quarter Walking Tour. June through August, ask for our free Sizzlin’ Summer Coupons book.
Other free publications are available at the NOMCVB Web site, www.neworleanscvb.com. A few examples: New Orleans at a Glance, Crescent City Lingo, Delectable Tidbits (New Orleans Food Terms) and Getting Around.
Not quite free, but invaluable in getting around, the VisiTour pass is one of the city’s great bargains. $5 for 1 day, $12 for 3 days buys unlimited rides on our historic streetcars and all busses in Orleans Parish. Available at VisiTour kiosks in the Riverwalk and the Jax Brewery. For information, call 504-248-3900.
This material may be reproduced for editorial purposes of promoting New Orleans. Please attribute stories to New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau. Fall 2004.
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